Our First Co-Ferment: Why We Chose This One

Ashton Nobler-Magdael

We've been roasting for a while now and this is our first co-fermented coffee. That's not because we weren't paying attention. It's because most of the co-ferments we tried tasted like a science experiment that forgot to be a coffee.

Then we tried Jairo Arcila's peach and wine yeast lot from Quindio, Colombia. That was different.

Ripe peach. Juicy and full, but light in a way you don't expect. Almost tea-like in body. The kind of cup you keep going back to because you're not quite sure how something can taste that much like a piece of fruit without actually being one.

We bought it.

What Co-Fermentation Actually Is

All coffee ferments. When a cherry is picked, the sugars in the fruit need to break down before the bean inside can be dried and roasted. That breakdown is fermentation, and it happens whether producers manage it carefully or just let it go.

Co-fermentation is what happens when a producer intentionally introduces something into that process: fruit, juice, yeast, or some combination. The added ingredient ferments alongside the coffee, and the compounds it releases fuse with the coffee's own sugars and mucilage.

The result is a coffee that carries flavor from what it was fermented with. Real flavor, not flavoring added after the fact. The peach is in the process. It got there through biology.

The reason co-ferments have a mixed reputation in specialty coffee: it's easy to overdo. When the process is sloppy, you get something that tastes like fruit syrup on top of a generic base. Origin disappears. You're just tasting the additive.

When it's done right, the origin and the process work together. The terroir provides the foundation. The co-ferment builds on it. That's what Arcila does.

Jairo Arcila and the Santa Monica Farm

Jairo Arcila is a third-generation coffee farmer based in Armenia, Quindio, Colombia. He built six farms across the region with his sons Carlos and Felipe, who co-founded Cofinet. His processing work at Santa Monica Farm is some of the most precise experimental work happening in specialty coffee right now.

For this lot, only the ripest cherries make the cut. They go to his La Pradera processing center and into sealed fermentation tanks with the pulp still on. Then fresh peaches and wine yeast are added directly to the tanks.

Over 72 hours, the peaches break down and release esters and alcohols. The wine yeast converts sugars into aromatic compounds. Both fuse with the coffee mucilage. After fermentation, the cherries are pulped and dried on concrete patios for 10 days until they reach an ideal moisture content of 9.5 to 11 percent.

Every variable is controlled. Every step is intentional. That's why the cup is clean instead of muddy, and why the peach tastes like peach instead of peach candy.

What It Tastes Like

Ripe peach is the loudest note, but what surprised us was the body. It's full and juicy, but it doesn't sit heavy. There's a lightness to it, almost tea-like, that makes it feel more delicate than the flavor would suggest. The maple syrup and orange come through as the cup cools. Cocoa powder shows up in the finish.

The aroma when you open the bag stops you. Intensely fruity and floral, somewhere between peach preserves and dark chocolate. It's the kind of smell that makes people in the room ask what you're making.

In the cup, the sweetness is lush but the body keeps it from feeling syrupy. The Castillo variety grown at 1,450 to 1,500 MASL gives the coffee enough structure to carry all that fruit without falling apart. Medium acidity, full body, long finish.

Hot and Cold

We served this at our pour over event at Wallflower in Portland recently, hot and cold side by side with the rest of our lineup. It was the most talked-about coffee of the night.

Hot: the peach and maple syrup notes come through clearly. The cocoa powder shows up in the finish. It's complete as a hot cup.

Cold, brewed Tokyo iced style directly over ice: the fruit character comes forward in a way that makes the cup taste almost like a very elegant, coffee-forward peach drink. The lightness that's already there in the hot version becomes the defining thing cold. People kept asking what it was.

If you want to try it Tokyo iced at home: fill your cup with ice, use about 40 percent of your total water weight as ice, and brew your pour over at a concentrated ratio (1:8 or 1:9 to brew water) directly over the ice. It chills on contact. More on the method in our <a href="https://cupcoffeeroasters.co/blogs/news/cold-coffee-three-ways-what-we-learned-brewing-hot-and-cold-back-to-back">cold coffee guide</a>.

Why We Carry It

At $32 for an 8oz bag, this is the most expensive coffee we offer. That reflects what it takes to produce a lot like this: the sorting, the controlled fermentation environment, the drying precision, the labor, the risk. Arcila's process has a low margin for error. You're paying for the care.

We also want to be honest: we don't carry co-ferments as a category. We carried this one because it was one of the best coffees we tasted this year. The fact that it happens to be a co-ferment is secondary to the fact that it's extraordinary.

If this is your first co-ferment, it's a good one to start with. If you've had co-ferments before and been disappointed, this is worth trying anyway.

Shop Jairo Arcila Peach Co-Ferment

Order by Sunday at midnight. Roasted Monday. Shipped Tuesday.

Cup Coffee Roasters is a specialty roaster based in Portland, Oregon. We source from women producers, smallholder farmers, and forward-thinking producers around the world. A portion of every purchase gives back to Coral Gardeners and Pueblo Unido PDX.

Back to blog